Wednesday, April 21, 2010

Eco-Fashion Highlight of the Month: Swati Argade

by Jocelyn M. Goode

In celebration of Earthday, FAIM Internet Magazine is spotlighting the work of eco-fashion designer Swati Argade. She is just one of many creators who are making conscious choices about the fabrics, processes and ethics surrounding the production of clothing. As more people become aware of the environmental problems we face as inhabitants of planet Earth, eco-fashion or sustainable fashion proves to be another solution. But what is eco-fashion anyway?

According to the website, www.ecofashionworld.com, which provides information about and access to sustainable designers and brands around the world, the criteria is as follows:
Animal-Free

Vegetarian / Animal Free: products that have been made without the use of leather or animal tissue products. Examples are shoes and bags made from “vegetal leather” using Amazonian rubber instead of animal skins or other recycled or man-made materials.

Community Based

Ethically Produced: Ethical fashion is fashion that has been produced with respect for people and the environment. Although there are existing certifications for Organic and Fair Trade, we want to encourage companies who are taking significant action but don’t qualify for certification. This might include companies producing locally or on small scales in developed countries, who might not qualify for Fair Trade certification or companies working with farmers to transition to sustainable crops but who might not yet qualify as Organic (which takes a few years). The “Ethic Chic” section of each brand profile should have details on the specific steps of the brand’s ethical production.

Craft-Artizan

Craft / Artisan: products that have been crafted using artisan skills such as embroidery, which preserve the perpetuation of ancestral traditions.

Custome-Tailor_made

Custom or Tailor-made: also called demi-couture or made-to-order. This is a way of encouraging quality and “slow fashion” over mass-produced disposable fashion.

Fair-Trade

Fair Trade Certified: an organized movement that promotes standards for international labor (such as reasonable work hours, no child labor, the right to unionize, a fair living wage), environmentalism, and social policy in areas related to production of goods. Fair Trade focuses on exports from developing countries to developed countries. Some Fair Trade certification organizations include: FLO www.fairtrade.net, IFAT www.ifat.org, TransFair (Canada and US) www.transfairusa.org and www.transfair.ca.

Organic

Organic: natural fibers that have been grown without any pesticides and other toxic materials, preserving the health of humans and the environment. The process of organic growth can be certified by various organizations.

Recycled

Recycled: anything that has been made from already existing materials, fabrics, metals or fibers. These are often reclaimed from previously made clothing and accessories and reworked into new ones. Fibers can also be re-purposed from pre-existing fabric, re-spun and reused for new garments.

Vintage

Vintage/Second-Hand:vintage is a generic term for new or second hand garments created in the period from the 1920’s to 1975. However, the term is often used more generally for second-hand clothes or up-cycled clothes (second-hand clothes that have been given a new life through some sort of customization).

Swati Argade's designs focus on sustaining ancient Indian traditions such as dyeing, weaving and embroidery. She personally selects prints and fabrics from local economies in different parts of India. For Swati, the finished outfit is part of a cycle, connected to all the people and processes that were necessary to create it. She states, "it became very important to me early on that my clothes had to be made with the producers and their history in mind. Their skill and participation are making this endeavor possible. The artisans, weavers and tailors are as much a part of the production chain as I am."

The genre of "eco" tends to conjure up images of bland designs in muted colors or super-conceptual aesthetics that an everyday person would not want to wear. Swati's creations, however, are sophisticated, feminine, modern and rich with color. Her inspirations range from ancient Indian architecture to Neo-Victorian to the starship enterprise. This Spring, Swati will introduce a line of raincoats made from recycled bottles, post-consumer waste and organic cotton. Here are FAIM's favorite looks-

For more on Swati, visit www.swatiargade.com

Tuesday, April 6, 2010

Haiti Relief Update: Where's the Money Going?

by Jocelyn M. Goode
It has been about three months since the world was rocked by the news of the disastrous earthquake in Haiti, that toppled the country's infrastructure and left thousands dead. People around the world responded with a downpour of donations to organizations like Wyclef's Yele, the American Red Cross and the Clinton Bush Haiti Fund. National governments also pledged money to help Haiti stabilize, with the United States offering the largest amount. Grassroot fundraisers hosted by individuals garnered a sizable collection of resources as well. So how is all this money being spent? Let's look at some figures.
as of January 24th, 2010. Courtesy of informationisbeautiful.com

According to an article by the Associated Press on January 27th, for every dollar of the $379 million that President Obama has allocated for Haiti earthquake release, "42 cents for disaster assistance, 33 cents for U.S. military aid, nine cents for food, nine cents to transport the food, five cents for paying Haitian survivors for recovery efforts, just under one cent to the Haitian government, and about half a cent to the Dominican Republic."

Essentially, $125 million of the money the U.S. is giving to Haiti is going back to the U.S. for their military. Questionable yet not surprising considering that American government often confuses help to mean military control of a country. Seriously, does relief really require that one third of the money go to maintaining an army or could that figure be reduced to increase the wages to Haitian workers actually rebuilding the country?




On March 29th, the American Red Cross released its plan to spend the $400 million in donations the organization received to aid recovery efforts in Haiti. Their plan is a long-term one to span over the next three to five years. In a recent press release, the American Red Cross published the following figures on their latest spending in Haiti: "In just 11 weeks, the American Red Cross has already spent or allocated a record $106.4 million, with approximately 52 percent of the funds being used for food, water and relief supplies; 36 percent for shelter; 8 percent have been dedicated for health and family services; and 4 percent for livelihoods through cash grants and loans." The organization expects to divide the $400 million, with half to be spent this year and the rest over the following years. Also a problematic plan considering that they've already spent 50% of this year's funds in 11 weeks!

Musician Wyclef Jean, founder of Yele Haiti, a popular non-profit organization to which many people of the Hip-Hop generation contributed money, is the center of a rumor scandal that alleges he paid $105,000 to his lover and personal assistant, Zakiya Khatou-Chevassus. While Yele's grassroots efforts produced $9,139,324 in donations, detractors claim that Wyclef has not been legit with managing the money. A Huffington Post article stated, "Back in late January, shortly after the 7.0 earthquake hit, YƩle Haiti was criticized for spending money on production crews in previous years, and Jean himself was accused of using money from the organization for his personal use. Jean admitted mistakes in the past, but denied wrongdoing and said he'd never take money from the organization..."

Wyclef's uncle, Haitian Ambassador Raymond Alcide Joseph had these comment on the matter, "I'm not a financial accountant, I haven't seen everything, but I think they had people go through the books and they did find some irregularities that were repaired, but as far as wholesale corruption--I say 'no'...It's not because Wyclef Jean is my nephew and I'm defending him but I know his heart is good and he's been doing good work in Haiti long, long before these people who have appeared on the scene.”


as of January 24th, 2010. Courtesy of informationisbeautiful.com

Another popular yet scandalous organization is the Clinton Bush Haiti Fund. Created by the former American presidents Bill Clinton and George W. Bush, the organization has raised $37 million including a $1 million donation from actor Leonardo DiCaprio and a $200,000 gift from President Obama's Nobel Peace Prize money. Even in the face of the ongoing joke that "Bush doesn't like Black people", the Young Professionals United for Change, a primarily African-American group hosted a fundraiser for Haiti in Harlem, NYC, turning over a portion of their donations to the Clinton Bush Haiti Fund. Yet, according to a CNSNews.com report on March 22nd, the presidential charity has only put about $4 million to use, approximately 10% of the total donations, giving to organizations such as "Habitat for Humanity, the University of Miami/Project Medishare mobile hospital in Port-au-Prince and the U.S. branch of the Irish charity Concern Worldwide. The rest has yet to be allocated." What are they waiting for? 90% of the people's money is just waiting to be spent while the situation in Haiti demands immediate action. So much for their presidential sense of impetus!

Well one thing is clear, George W. Bush just may not be a true hands-on person. This YouTube video has been circulating through the web showing Bush wiping his hands on Bill Clinton's shirt after shaking hands with a Haitian man.



Clearly, it is important to track the millions that has been raised against the progress actually taking place in Haiti because the tendency towards fraud is apparent. ABC News reported that Operation USA, American Refugee Committee, Merlin and Doctors Without Borders--four major organizations working on Haiti relief, could not provide specifics about their spending and were unable to assign dollar figures to their efforts. Here is an ABC News graph which shows that 69%, $325 million has not been spent on anything yet. If what the United Nations and the World Bank have found in a recent preliminary assessment is true, then it will take about $11.5 billion in the next three years to rebuild Haiti. There is no room for cheating, stealing, misallocating and stalling resources that individuals have already donated to aid Haiti's relief efforts. Accountability is a must!
as of January 24th, 2010. Courtesy of informationisbeautiful.com
Sources:
http://newsroom.redcross.org/2010/03/29/press-release-american-red-cross-announces-spending-plan-for-relief-and-recovery-in-haiti/ http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/35103622// http://iamyoung.ning.com/profiles/blogs/wyclef-raises-10-million-for?xg_source=shorten_twitter http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2010/03/16/zakiya-khatou-chevassus-w_n_500895.html http://www.cnsnews.com/news/print/63130 http://abcnews.go.com/WN/HaitiEarthquake/haiti-us-charity-donations-haiti-earthquake-victims-spent/story?id=9786221 http://www.informationisbeautiful.net/2010/haiti-earthquake-whos-given-what/

Tuesday, March 23, 2010

Tips for Successful Selling Online from Chanel Kennebrew, Artistic Money-Maker

by Jocelyn M. Goode

How many artists dream of making a living from their art? A popular fantasy for a countless number of creative people working daily on their craft, but often without any method to actualize a salary, profit or even one sale. Equally common is the myth that artists are terrible at business, further making their ultimate wish nothing more than a pipe dream.

Reality is, there are thousands of artists who have discovered all sorts of ways to get their work seen and sold. The internet is one of the most thriving free markets, filled with software, tools and websites made especially to aid artists and craft-makers in the sale of their products. In this article, FAIM Internet Magazine shares some effective practices from one artist/designer on how to make money online.

Chanel Kennebrew is the founder of Junkprints (www.junkprints.com). On her site you will find a fly, funky, hip-hop, retro collection of limited-edition goodies she has designed along with samples of her illustrations, editorials and product designs.

She recently collaborated with Birkenstock and ReadyMade Magazine to create a run of shoes embellished with her hand drawings. Chanel's other honorable mentions include working as the Art Director of Fredflare.com and features in Honey Magazine, The New York Sun Newspaper, on the Discovery Channel and Good Morning America.

So how did this 27-year old African-American woman from Inglewood, CA get to this point of success? Well the story goes something like this: after earning a Bachelor of Fine Arts Degree in Toronto she moved to Brooklyn with aspirations to make it as a "New York artist". After hustling her work from gallery to gallery, it wasn't long before she asked herself, "how do you get in? It doesn't seem to about the work...So I focused on making money and having food in the fridge...somewhere down the line I needed to create for myself and I'm not interested in running the gamut and chasing everyone down."

Step One: List your stuff in a communal marketplace
She started an etsy account. For those not familiar with the site (www.etsy.com), it is "your place to buy and sell all things handmade". So long as the items are not mass-produced, creators can have an account for free and list products for $.20 each. The marketplace is a community in itself that produces a high amount of daily traffic and is definitely worth exploring for those interested introducing their art to an online sell space. Chanel saw that people, including art dealers and collectors, liked her "junk" and were buying it quickly. Still she needed a real marketing plan.

Step Two: Subscribe to a service and promote through email blasts.
After really studying what large companies did to attract customers, Chanel asked herself, "how can I do it for myself on a smaller scale?" The answer led her to employ the services of VerticalResponse (www.verticalresponse.com) which offers a number of plans to enable business to send e-blasts, surveys and postcards without limit for as little as $10 a month. With this element of marketing added, Chanel saw increased sales and began to consider taking it to the next level by quitting her freelance gigs and selling online full-time.

Step Three: Do quit your day job...
This is where faith, determination, guts and discipline come into play. Quitting your day job to invest the time and energy necessary to grow your own business is a decision of definite courage. Yet for Chanel, she just took the leap. "I took a pay decrease but I feel better about the day-to-day." So what does that day-to-day look like? She spells out her routine,"I get up early, around 7 or 8 in the morning and run or something to get my mind running. Then I go to the blog and get stuff off my chest."

Step Four: Blog regularly
Her blog, Dookyblog, loving subtitled as "a fine place to talk shit" , uses a customized Wordpress template. Wordpress (www.wordpress.com) is the best reputed host for bloggers. It cost nothing to get started and the company has a wide selection of features, widgets and templates to help you personalize your blog to your content. Blogging is important because it gives the Junkprints audience a reason to visit the site regularly and to interact with Chanel by leaving comments.

Step Five: Manage your store
After updating her blog, Chanel moves to the store part of her site. Even though she lists on etsy.com, she is able to manage that account from Junkprints and prefers to keep traffic centralized that way. Another e-commerce tool that she uses is Big Cartel (www.bigcartel.com), "a simple shopping cart for artists [that is] easy to use, customizable and awesome." Their plans are free for beginners, but advance to upgraded ones where the user can fully customize, offer discount codes, track statistics in depth and use their own URL, all without a contract or commitment. Chanel likes Big Cartel because the user-friendly interface offers more control. Here she can keep track of her inventory, fulfill new orders and identify the items that are the most popular.

Step Six: Make more friends micro-blogging
An avid twitterer (www.twitter.com), Chanel loves engaging on the micro-blog site where messages must be sent in 140 characters or less. Throughout her day, she is able to share photos of her latest creations with her "followers" with the convenience of her updates linking to her facebook (www.facebook.com) page as well. If she is busy, particularly during holiday seasons, she will schedule her tweets at FutureTweeets (www.futuretweets.com), a free service that lets you plan your Twitter messages and have them sent at a specific time in the future.

Chanel emphasizes the importance of social networking beyond the "look at me!" factor. It is about responding and building relationships with people. She adds, "my online presence is the main way I receive press. I let the people decide what is valid instead of sending out flyers to the press. I use technology to promote and to be an artist." Still, she keeps her online activity limited to three-four hours out of the day and then focuses on making the art and creating special projects.

The biggest challenges of running an online business is having the discipline to manage one's time effectively and efficiently. For Chanel, that meant establishing regular hours, even a regular schedule. All entrepreneurs experience highs and lows, so determination is also key for long-term success. Yet, the integration of social media tools aids tremendously in growing a business, particularly when working with a limited budget.

Step Seven: Success defined
So the big question is how much money does Junkprints make for Chanel? Well she did not give a numeric answer but simply said this, "I live in my own spot in Brooklyn, I do this full-time with no part-time gig, and I just got back from spending a month in Costa Rica." Clearly, for her success is about having a lifestyle that enables her to be creative on her own terms and to share with her work with those who appreciate it, and to make enough to take a long-vacation every now and then.
"The internet is my gallery and the people are the curators...my work is for the people so I will stay online."

Thursday, March 11, 2010

Who's Representing the Black Subject?-Part Three

commentary by Jocelyn M. Goode

Artists are representing the black subject, even if relatively small in total percentage. The messages are many as are the objectives of those making the art. For the readers, artists and patrons, the question now becomes one to ask ourselves, what is our relationship to black subjectivity? what do we want to see? and how are we supporting it?

My wish would be for a greater diversity and larger platform for black art to exist and for it to be as desirable and marketable as other art forms. Only time will tell...

Enjoy these last images from the Armory Show.
by Kerry James Marshall

by Carrie Mae Weems

by Barkley L. Hendricks

by Adam Mkewen

by Mohamed Bourouissa

by Pieter Hugo

by Louis Cameron

by Kara Walker

by Robert Mapplethorpe

by John Brakston

by John Brakston

by Yinka Shonibae

by Delvin Troy Strother

by Delvin Troy Strother

by Delvin Troy Strother

by artist unknown, Goodman Gallery Johannesburg, Capetown

by Alfredo Jaar

by Peter Saul

by Philip Lorca di Coreia

by Sheila Pree Bright

by Sheila Pree Bright

by Nathaniel Donnett

by Peter McDonald

by Peter McDonald